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Florence Travelogue] Pantheon and Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence - Visiting the tombs of Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo.
At the end of 2022 I traveled to Europe. And the experiences I had during that time.Dostoevsky and His Wife's Fateful Journey: Travels in Western Europe in Madness and Love.I have summarized it in a travelogue and updated it on this blog.
And on that trip I also visited Florence.
However, since this travelogue mainly introduces the places associated with Dostoevsky, we could not introduce all of Florence, which is full of attractions.
In this article, we will introduce the Basilica of Santa Croce, one of the most impressive cathedrals in Florence.
The Basilica of Santa Croce is a short walk east from the area where the Duomo is located.
This is the interior of the Basilica of Santa Croce. The columns are relatively thin, giving it a spacious and open feeling.
The "Globe-Trotter" described this church as follows.
The church faces an atmospheric square, the oldest in Florence. The space created by the adjoining monastery courtyard and the chapel of the Pazzi family by Brunelleschi is of exceptional beauty, and is said to be a condensation of the Florentine Renaissance.
The church is 140 x 40 meters and contains 276 tombs, including the mausoleum of Dante, who died in Ravenna after being forced to flee the city, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Rossini, G. Galilei, and many others, giving it the appearance of a large cemetery. The interior is also decorated by various artists.
Diamond Inc. "Chikyu no Arukikata A09 Italy 2019-2020 Edition" p. 160
As this commentary explains, this cathedral contains the graves of eminent figures. I came to this cathedral to visit the graves of these great men. I visited Machiavelli's grave in particular with a strong feeling.
Michelangelo's tomb
This is Michelangelo's tomb. It is painted with Michelangelo's typical warm colors and physical expression.
And as I stood in front of this grave, I suddenly thought.
I was like, "Huh? What did Michelangelo look like...?"
When we visit a grave, we think of that person when we pay our respects. However, Michelangelo's face and figure don't come to mind.
Then I realized that I hardly knew what Michelangelo looked like in the first place. I realized that I hardly knew what Michelangelo looked like in the first place....
When you think of Michelangelo, you probably think of the "Pietà" in St. Peter's Square, the ceiling paintings of the Sistine Chapel and "The Last Judgment," and "David" here in Florence.
But the impact of these masterpieces is so strong that when I think of Michelangelo, I think of these masterpieces rather than Michelangelo himself...
This must be quite a rare phenomenon.
Because if it is Leonardo da Vinci, we can also somehow picture that face.
I thought as I stood in front of the tomb that this was one of the interesting things about Michelangelo.
By the way, here is Michelangelo's face. How do you feel about it?
... hmm? Wait a minute.
If you think about it, isn't it more unusual for da Vinci to come to mind when you think of the artist's face? Huh? I'm beginning to think so. Raphael also comes to mind somehow. But there are many famous painters such as Bruegel, Botticelli, Monet, Manet, Cézanne, etc., but it is difficult to picture their faces. In that sense, da Vinci may be more special. It is a little different when I think of him after taking a breath after returning to Japan than when I think of him in front of his grave.
Below is an article on Michelangelo for those interested.
Machiavelli's tomb
This is the grave of Machiavelli, famous for his "The Theory of Monarchs".
In fact, my main reason for visiting this church was to visit the grave of this Machiavelli.
What got me interested in him was a book by Takashina ShujiThe Fate of Early Renaissance Art in Florence.It was the first time I read the
The book gave me an insight into the political situation in Florence at the height of the Renaissance in the 15th century, as well as the historical background of Italy as a whole.
I was surprised to learn that the prosperity of Renaissance art was greatly influenced by the unique political situation in Italy, and that Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were used precisely as tools for political gamesmanship between countries.
And I was living in that very same time period.The Monarchist.It was that Machiavelli, famous for his
The book itself is quite difficult to read and is a tough read. I tried to read this book before, but I failed in the first half of the book and left it behind.
But when I read "The Monarchy" again after reading this "The Fate of Florentine Early Renaissance Art," it showed a completely different face! It's just so interesting! After understanding the background of the period, Machiavelli's words came to make sense to me.
This made me curious about Cesare Borgia, who was also the model for the ideal monarch in "The Theory of Monarchs. Since he was the model for "The Theory of Monarchs," which was to sweep the world, he must have been an incredibly huge man. I wanted to know more about him, so I searched for a book about him and came across the followingThen and now."The book was called.
I enjoyed this book immensely as well! It is a superb historical novel! This is a great book I found!
Two geniuses, Machiavelli and Cesare Borgia, weave an intense human drama! You can also learn about the historical background of Italy in which they lived. In the dramatic storyline, there are quotes reminiscent of "The Theory of Monarchs," and we also get to know the human side of Machiavelli.
The translator's commentary on this work at the end of the book reads as follows
The protagonists in "Then and Now" are Niccolò Machiavelli and Cesare Borgia. Machiavelli was a brilliant and astute bureaucrat in the service of the Florentine Republic, a comedian, and above all, the author of "The Theory of Monarchs," which today is considered the founder of modern political science.
Cesare Borgia, on the other hand, has long been known in history as the "poison pill of the Borgia family," a treacherous power fugitive, the author of Machiavellianism, who would stop at nothing to achieve his ends.
Machiavelli, in his "Treatise on Monarchs," says that a monarch must be as fierce as a lion and as cunning as a fox, that he must not be bound by the virtues and reputations of the world, but must be willing to commit cruel acts at the drop of a hat and to venture into evil, as the occasion may require. He also said of Cesare Borgia, who died in the middle of a heroic act, "He was a man of great courage and strength. He was a man of great courage and strength, and he knew how to tame or destroy the people" ("The Theory of Monarchs," translated by Ren Ikeda).
However, because of its language that challenged Christian virtues, "The Monarchy" was impeached as a "work of the devil" by a prominent churchman shortly after Machiavelli's death, and his entire oeuvre was eventually placed on the papal catalog of forbidden books.
Chikuma Shobo, Somerset Maugham, translated by Takashi Amano, "Then and Now" p366-367
Some line breaks have been made.
Just reading this passage brings out the kind of person Machiavelli and Cesare Borgia were, doesn't it?
The author then continues. In the next section, the historical background of Italy at that time is explained.
In Machiavelli's time, Italy was a divided country with city-states of various sizes, which allowed the intervention and plunder of the French and Spanish powers that had established an absolute monarchy. The time when the two powers maintained a balance of power by hiring and being hired by mercenaries and fighting "eight hundred wars," and enjoying the splendor of Renaissance culture, was passing away. Since the invasion of King Charles VIII of France in 1494, Italy had been in a precarious situation with brutal fighting and rampant looting throughout the country.
In this turbulent era, Cesare Borgia appeared. He was a young and sturdy monarch, only twenty-seven years old. Although he was the bastard son of Pope Alessandro VI, he created a national army with the aim of unifying the country and strove to eliminate the petty lords in order to seize real power in the papal territories.
Faced with his ambitions, Florence, Venice, Siena, and Bologna were unsettled. For them, Italy's divided state and balance of power were the conditions for their own prosperity. If Cesare's radical actions were allowed to continue, the very existence of the metropolitan states would be threatened. Its freedom and prosperity would be lost.
At the same time, Cesare's mercenary captains rebelled, fearing that they, too, might be sacrificed to their master's ambitions. This was Florence's best chance for the Republic to survive. If the greedy soldiers would cannibalize each other, it would be Florence who would benefit. Thus, the Florentine government sent Machiavelli, a man of many tongues and hands, as an envoy to Cesare, who was seeking a huge mercenary contract. The plan was to dodge Cesare's contrarianism with a three-pointed tongue until the result of the rebellion could be seen.
The story is thus told through the warp of the bickering between these two geniuses, and the weft of the womanizing Machiavelli's skillful play with the flames of love. Machiavelli is a 33-year-old man in his prime, a bureaucrat loyal to the Republic as well as a passionate, flesh-and-blood man. Upon arriving in Imola on business, he falls in love at first sight with the young wife of a powerful merchant, and struggles to win her over during his hectic diplomatic negotiations. His desperate political activities and serious romantic endeavors are depicted with the light touch that is characteristic of Maugham.
The story of Machiavelli's tearful activities can be found in this book, but the comical storyline is inextricably linked with Machiavelli's and Maum's keen observations of human nature, which will delight readers at every turn. If you pick up "The Monarchist" after reading "Then and Now," you will probably be greatly stimulated in your interest and reading will go on.
Chikuma Shobo, Somerset Maugham, translated by Takashi Amano, "Then and Now" p367-369
Some line breaks have been made.
It is surprising to learn that Cesare Borgia was the bastard son of Pope Alessandro VI. Moreover, he was a man of tremendous ambition who wanted to use his position to seize control of all of Italy.
And as this work preaches, Cesare Borgia was not just a man who took advantage of his birth, he was also an incredibly brilliant man. One can only be amazed at his keen mind, his charisma, and his power and intrigue.
The translator.If you pick up "The Monarchist" after reading "Then and Now," your interest will be piqued and your reading will be enhanced.As I will state, this is a work that I highly recommend reading as a set.
Perhaps most of the world reads the famous "The Theory of Monarchs" by itself. I did, too.
I remember that I picked up a copy of the famous "The Theory of the Monarch" with such a light heart and thought, "I wonder what kind of book it is. I have a bitter memory of picking it up with such a light feeling, but as I expected, I failed to read it.
However, what if you reread "The Monarchist" after reading this "Then and Now"? This will make such a difference that it will seem like a completely different work. Now I find "Monarchism" interesting and entertaining.
Now, when we think of Machiavelli's "The Monarchist Theory," as the word Machiavellianism suggests, we inevitably get the image of ruthlessness, intrigue, and all-around realism in order to win in the face of harsh reality.
It is true that such things are discussed in "The Monarchist".
However,Why did Machiavelli have to state such a thing?"This background is often overlooked.
The political situation in Italy at that time was quite unique. As mentioned above, Italy was a country of many city-states, each of which operated under a seemingly democratic system of republicanism. Although the country was formally run as a republic, a seemingly democratic system, it was in reality a corrupt and dysfunctional system.
Moreover, this was a time when powerful absolute monarchical states such as France and Spain were moving to invade Italy, and the Ottoman Empire was also overrunning the Mediterranean region.
A group of city-states that were corrupt and dysfunctional. It was the Italy in which Machiavelli lived that was full of skirmishes between such small countries based on a token democracy. If France, Spain, the Ottoman Empire, and other great powers had not invaded, they could have continued their farcical skirmishes within Italy.
But in a situation where major powers attack without question, a strong national system is needed. It is a situation that can no longer be handled by a corrupt democracy.
Machiavelli would have hoped, if possible, that his beloved Florence would prosper under a healthy democracy. But in these times of crisis, a corrupt few continue to display their incompetence in the name of republicanism...
It was in this context that Machiavelli wrote "The Monarchy.
In this light, it is easy to see that this work is an opinion piece based on a rather unique situation.
Machiavelli's teachings are very important for us to consider the situation in Italy and Europe during the Renaissance. Machiavelli also teaches us about the world in which political economy and religion were integrated.
I can't get over Machiavelli for showing me the complexity of European society, the fun, and the intensity of the battle without honor and humanity.
However, I myself am not advocating the ruthlessness and intrigue of the model of "The Monarchist" (laugh)."Machiavelli, The Monarchy, Historical Background and Impressions: Political Theory by a Florentine Contemporary of da Vinci."I hope you will read that article as well, as it goes into more detail in the following article.
I have a strong attachment to Machiavelli. Machiavelli was a mentor who taught me the harshness of the world. Machiavelli did not want to promote a no-nonsense, no-holds-barred scheme; he was fighting to save his beloved Florence. To learn more about his life, write M. ViroliThe Life of Machiavelli: The Mystery of His Smile.is recommended.
In this book, you will get to know a very different picture of Machiavelli than most people in the world imagine him to be.
Knowing Machiavelli, I was very, very much looking forward to this visit to his grave. I visited his grave slowly and with all my heart in remembrance of his tumultuous life.
Galileo Galilei's tomb
This is the tomb of Galileo Galilei.
Galileo Galilei, a scientist born in Pisa, Italy. 1564 is the year of theShakespeareIt is also the year in which It is very moving to know that the genius who changed the world was born in the same year.
Galileo observed the stars through an astronomical telescope and conducted a series of scientific experiments. Galileo's theories clashed head-on with the worldview described by the Catholic Church.
Moreover, Italy, where Galileo lived, is the seat of Roman Catholicism. It is a very strict religious region. If you even slightly differ from what the church says, you will be subjected to the Inquisition.
Such is the life of Galileo, by Michael White.Galileo Galilei Biography: The Man Who Changed the World 17is recommended. We encourage you to pick up a copy.
Monument to Dante
To my surprise, there is even a monument to Dante in this Basilica of Santa Croce. This was also a great pleasure for me as a reader of Dante's "Divine Comedy.
The Divine Comedy.Dante is a classic that everyone knows the name of. However, it is surprisingly difficult to know when this work was written and what kind of person Dante was when he wrote it.
So here is a brief profile of Dante.
Born in Florence, Tuscany in 1265. Italian poet. He was deeply involved in political activities, but in 1302, he was involved in a political upheaval and was permanently exiled from his homeland. He spent the rest of his life as a wanderer. Died in 1321.
Kawade Shobo Shinsha, Dante, translated by Yukihiro Hirakawa, from "The Divine Comedy in Hell
Dante would be of a generation slightly before Petrarch (1304-1374) and Boccaccio (1313-1375), the leading figures of Italian Renaissance literature.
We were first surprised to learn that he was born in Florence, but we were also surprised to learn that he was exiled because he was involved in a political dispute. The Divine Comedy was written out of his various feelings about this exile. The work looks different when you consider that his feelings for his country, power struggles, and resentment against injustice were the driving forces behind this work. It somewhat overlaps with Machiavelli.
The Basilica of Santa Croce is a wonderful place to visit the tombs of the great masters of the Renaissance.
In this article we have mentioned Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Galileo, and Dante, but there are many other big names whose graves are here. Specialists in their respective fields are laid to rest here. No wonder it is called the "Pantheon of Florence.
Although it may be a little hidden from the many attractions of Florence, it is a church that I highly recommend.
Why not visit?
This was "Basilica di Santa Croce in Florence - Visiting the Tombs of Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo".
Click here to read the previous article.
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