Visit the exotic city of Sarajevo and hear from people who have experienced the Bosnian conflict.

The most memorable country of my trip! The Monk Takahiro Ueda's Circumnavigation of the World: Bosnia - 19 articles in the list

My next stop after Austria was Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Bosnia and Herzegovina...

What image do you have of this country?

The site of the Sarajevo Incident, the catalyst for World War I.

1984 Winter Olympics.

And where the Bosnian conflict took place in the 1990s.

Recently, the country has been in the news as the birthplace of soccer coaches Ivica Osim and Vahid Halilhodzic.

However, there are probably quite a few people who know what kind of country this is and where it is located.

As I said, I had no idea about this country before I planned this trip.

I knew there was a tragic conflict.

But I rarely looked there.

My interest in this country in planning my trip was based on my memory of being taught that the Bosnian conflict was a religious and ethnic conflict in which neighbors who had lived in harmony suddenly began to kill each other.

How can people hate others so easily?

Why was it possible to kill a neighbor who was close to you for religious reasons?

Does religion drive people to act cruelly?

Is ethnic conflict the gateway to hell destined for human beings?

It was precisely because of these questions that I decided to visit Bosnia and have since read various books.

And as I read various books, I realized something.

The Bosnian conflict is not that simple."

It is not an accurate answer to say that neighbors who were close to each other suddenly killed each other because of their religion or ethnicity.

There was a depth of complexity awaiting us that the more we learned about it, the more incomprehensible it became.

Ethnicity and religion are not the only reasons for this conflict.

Too intricately intertwined histories, cultures, economies, ethnicities, religions, and agendas among the major powers.

If you want to know the background of this conflict, an incredible number of characters and circumstances appear.

Yes, this is a phenomenon that also occurred when I learned about Israel.

Too complicated a background...

The background of an event is not easily known.

And that is exactly the kind of tragic event that occurred less than a few years after I was born in 1990.

In a world I knew nothing about and had lived in peace, the worst postwar conflict and genocide was taking place.

It was in Europe, about to enter the 21st century.

When I thought about it again, it was also very shocking to me.

That is why I have strong feelings for Bosnia.

In the Bosnia section, you will learn about the history of the conflict with Mirza, a guide who experienced the conflict.

The words of Mirza, who knew what was going on at the time, were so shocking.

And I will be robbed during my stay in Sarajevo.

This event had a major impact on my subsequent journey, and what I learned in Bosnia was finally etched into my mind.

Peace is not a given. I realized from the bottom of my heart that it is possible to be suddenly attacked by violence.

Bosnia was the most memorable country of my trip.

Although it is a minor and little-known overseas travel destination, it is for this reason that this article is a must-read.

Let me preface this article by saying that we will get right to the point.

From Vienna to Sarajevo - Why I Chose Bosnia: Bosnia Part 1

April 26, 2019.

I was on a plane from Vienna to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

As you approach Sarajevo, the mountainous terrain is covered in dark green.

Most of Bosnia is covered with mountains and forested areas.

Then a small village appears between the mountains, and from there the mountains continue on.

The city of Sarajevo is also surrounded on all sides by mountains.

This could be clearly seen from the view from the plane.

Finally, the trip to Sarajevo begins.

From Vienna to Sarajevo - Why I Chose Bosnia: Bosnia Part 1

Arrival in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia - What kind of country is Bosnia?　Bosnia Part 2

April 26.

Landing at the airport in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

From the airport, we drove to our lodgings in the old town.

The atmosphere of the city is somehow different from both Europe and Asia.

The city looks a bit desolate, perhaps because the traces of the recent conflict are still lingering.

In this article, I will talk about what kind of country Bosnia and Herzegovina is, intertwined with a bit of city walking.

Arrival in Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia - What kind of country is Bosnia?　Bosnia Part 2

The Miracle of Sarajevo - The Tunnel that Bridged Lives! Bosnian Conflict and Tunnel Museum Bosnia Part 3

April 27, 2019.

On this day, the tour of Bosnia will begin in earnest.

We asked BEMI TOUR, a local tour company, to support us during our stay in Bosnia this time.

Compared to other countries, Bosnia has far less information available in advance in Japan.

In addition, there were concerns about security.

And most of all, I wanted to hear about the conflict directly from the locals.

I wanted to know what one can never know simply by looking around at the sites of conflict.

What happened there, and what exactly did the local people feel under the extreme conditions?

In order to understand this, it was not enough to simply visit the site, but it was also necessary to listen to the stories of the local people.

They run a tour company as a couple, and for my trip this time, Mirza-san accompanied me as a local guide and Matsui-san as an interpreter.

This article introduces the Tunnel Museum, which played a major role in the Bosnian conflict.

Also featured in this article is Sniper Street, made famous during the Bosnian conflict.

From the very first day in Sarajevo, I was shocked by the reality of the conflict...

The Miracle of Sarajevo - The Tunnel that Bridged Lives! Bosnian Conflict and Tunnel Museum Bosnia Part 3

A symbol of peace becomes a cemetery for victims of conflict...Vrelobosne Nature Park and Olympic Stadium Cemetery Bosnia Part 4

After visiting the Tunnel Museum, our next stop was Vlerobosne Nature Park.

This natural park is located at the foot of the mountains surrounding the city of Sarajevo and is famous for its clean spring water.

It is a place of rest and relaxation that Bosnians often visit on sunny days.

And the next stop after Vlerobosne Nature Park was a cemetery near the Olympic Stadium.

The 1984 Winter Olympics were held right here in Sarajevo.

Less than a decade after the Olympic Games, a festival of peace, the region was plunged into conflict.

During the conflict, the city of Sarajevo suffered many casualties.

This made it impossible to bury the bodies in the original cemetery plot.

So it was suddenly decided to use the sub-grounds of the Olympic Stadium as a cemetery.

This article will introduce you to the beautiful landscape of Vlerobosne and the cemetery of the Olympic Stadium.

A symbol of peace becomes a cemetery for victims of conflict...Vrelobosne Nature Park and Olympic Stadium Cemetery Bosnia Part 4

Sarajevo Walking Tour - Walking in the Jerusalem of Europe, Bosnia (5)

April 28, 2019.

On this day, too, I walked around Sarajevo with Mr. Mirza and Ms. Matsui of BEMI TOUR.

The day was a Sarajevo walking tour, a half-day schedule to learn about the culture and history of Sarajevo and the time of the conflict.

This article will focus on the culture and history of Sarajevo.

The famous Latin Bridge, which triggered World War I, and the exotic streets of the old town will be introduced.

Sarajevo was a city of so many different ethnicities and religions that it was called the Jerusalem of Europe. This article also discusses the origins of this unique culture.

This article also includes information about Bosnian coffee.

Drinking Bosnian coffee was an unusual and very interesting experience.

Sarajevo Walking Tour - Walking in the Jerusalem of Europe, Bosnia (5)

Risking one's life to cross even a single alleyway! Learning about the Bosnian Conflict in Downtown Sarajevo, Bosnia Part 6

Sarajevo was besieged and attacked by Serb forces for almost three and a half years, from April 1992 to October 1995.

The number of victims during that period was approximately 12,000.

I was born in 1990 and was 2 years old at the time.

I have no memory of those days, of course.

However, during my childhood, when I was living peacefully, there was a tragic conflict going on in faraway Bosnia.

It was in a country where diverse ethnic groups and religions coexisted.

Cultural diversity was supposed to be the good thing that the country had, but it quickly disintegrated.

What in the world happened here?

In this article, you will learn about the Bosnian conflict as you walk the streets of Sarajevo.

One of the places that impressed me the most was the small alley that is the title of this article. It was a place that Mirza, a conflict survivor, brought me to.

And there they learned of the extreme conditions under which they risked their lives just to cross a single alleyway.

This article presents firsthand experiences of people who have experienced conflict, which are not often seen in books or on television.

Risking one's life to cross even a single alleyway! Learning about the Bosnian Conflict in Downtown Sarajevo, Bosnia Part 6

The Story of Mirza, a Bosnian Conflict Experiencer (Part I) Bosnia (7)

In the tunnel tours and Sarajevo walking tours we have introduced so far, we have toured the scars of the conflict with Mirza, who has experienced the conflict.

Hearing from Mirza, who was in Sarajevo during the conflict, was far more poignant than what I had gotten from reading the book.

The conflict took place in distant Bosnia. The conflict in Sarajevo alone claimed the lives of approximately 12,000 people and devastated the entire country.

We tend to see it within the larger framework of a conflict in which different religions and ethnic groups kill each other.

A huge event of conflict, told in an easy-to-understand composition.

But the facts simply do not stop there.

Ethnicity and religion are not the only triggers of conflict. There are too many complexities involved in this conflict.

If we try to understand everything in a large, easy-to-understand framework, something important may be missing there.

Why did the conflict occur and what exactly was going on there?

To know that, I think it's important to hear from each and every one of us who actually experienced it."

That's how I felt.

I would be more than happy to convey a little bit of what conflict is all about through the stories of individuals whose faces I can see.

Mr. Mirza also graciously agreed to be interviewed, saying, "There are as many stories of conflict as there are citizens of Sarajevo, but if my experiences can lead to an awareness of peace and contribute to a peaceful future, I am willing to cooperate as much as possible.

This article presents the story of Mirza's conflict.

Peaceful life was suddenly taken away by the Bosnian conflict.

The life of Mr. Mirza, who lived a tumultuous life, will have a strong impact on us.

The Story of Mirza, a Bosnian Conflict Experiencer (Part I) Bosnia (7)

The Story of Mirza, a Bosnian Conflict Experiencer (Part 2) Bosnia Part 8

In the previous part of this article, we talked about the time just before Mr. Mirza became involved in the siege of Sarajevo.

In this second part of the article, we will discuss the tense scenes as Mirza escaped the siege of Sarajevo and headed out of the country.

A single error in judgment can lead to death.

Under such extreme circumstances, Mirza escaped from Sarajevo.

Mirza told us this story after telling us this story.

This is the Bosnian conflict as I see it. The conflict has changed my life forever.

We suddenly lost our peaceful lives and were hit by violence.

If you're alive, incredible things do happen."

After the conflict ended in 1995, my brother fled to Rome.

My brother lived with me for a while after that.

However, for the first three months or so after he came to my home, he was very unstable mentally.

For my brother, it was very difficult to return to normalcy after the extremes of his life in Sarajevo.

So much so that the conflict left a deep scar on our hearts.

There are still many people in Bosnia who have not recovered from their wounds and are suffering emotionally.

People still don't want to talk about the time of the conflict.

It was such a tragic memory.

However, if my experience of conflict can contribute to peace, I would be happy to help.

I would be happy if you could share your experiences of the conflict with the Japanese people."

I will never forget Bosnia because I met Mirza.

We hope this story will spread to as many people as possible.

The Story of Mirza, a Bosnian Conflict Experiencer (Part 2) Bosnia Part 8

Takahiro Ueda, robbed in Sarajevo, Bosnia ⑨.

In this article I will discuss an unexpected incident I encountered.

I was walking to my lodgings along the river after a wander through the old town of Sarajevo.

And on the way there, I had the misfortune of stopping at a bridge to look at the river from there.

I was attacked there by a pair of robbers.

Despite the fact that just a few moments ago Mirza had told me that it is possible to suddenly become involved in violence, I had no idea that I would be involved in violence.

How pathetic, but fortunately we were able to escape unharmed and there was no damage.

But the shock of this incident was to linger...

Takahiro Ueda, robbed in Sarajevo, Bosnia ⑨.

The Genocide in Europe, to the place of the massacre of Srebrenica (1) Bosnia (10)

On April 29, Mirza and I headed to a town called Srebrenica.

It is known as the site of the worst postwar genocide.

Today, a vast cemetery has been created there and a Memorial Center stands.

Yes. That is where those who lost their lives in sudden violence are buried.

I can only think of it as a strange coincidence that I ended up going to this place the day after I suffered the unforeseen violence of a robbery.

This experience, witnessing the massacre here today with the horror of the previous day's events still fresh in my mind, is an event I will never forget.

The sense of heavy air I felt here.

And a quiet cemetery with only the faint sound of the wind.

The color of the sky, the green of the trees, and the white of the gravestones...

Each thing I felt here was imprinted on my heart.

To the Worst Genocide of the Postwar Era, the Massacre of Srebrenica (1) Bosnia (10)

The Genocide in Europe, to the place of the Srebrenica massacre (2) Bosnia (11)

After visiting Srebrenica's grave, we headed to the Srebrenica Memorial Hall.

Although it is called a memorial hall, the exterior has the feel of an old factory.

However, it is not a mistake to call it an old factory.

In fact, this building used to be an actual factory, and during the conflict, the Serbian army used this factory as a concentration camp.

And now it serves as a museum.

From the entrance, the air is heavy.

Combined with the dark gray sky that looks as if it could rain at any moment, it creates a more frightening atmosphere.

As we entered the building with trepidation, we found a space made of poured concrete.

The scene is quiet, and only the sound of raindrops falling at regular intervals echoes in this space.

The moment I entered here, I felt something cold and crushingly oppressive clinging to my entire body.

The materials on display here were also heartbreaking and tragic...

This article presents some of them.

My experience in Srebrenica was one I will never forget.

The Worst Genocide of the Postwar Era (2) Bosnia (11)

Strength of Heart to Overcome Fear and Loneliness: A Conversation with Mirza, a Conflict Experienced Bosnian ⑫

After our visit to the Srebrenica Memorial Hall, we turned around and headed back towards Sarajevo.

The journey from Srebrenica to Sarajevo takes about three hours each way.

I had many conversations with Mirza during that time.

We talked about Bosnian culture, Mirza's time in Italy, coffee, soccer, and so much more than I can talk about here.

And after my shocking experience in Srebrenica, a question arose in me that I really wanted to ask Mirza.

On my way home, I decided to boldly confide this to Mirza.

I was robbed yesterday. (Of course, Mr. Mirza already knows this.)

I was really shocked. I never thought that I would be subjected to violence.

And last night I suffered from fear and loneliness.

I really felt the weakness of my own heart.

My mind was reeling.

I was struck down by just one unexpected mishap.

I realized that I am far from having a heart that is unmoved by anything. I am ashamed of myself.

Mirza also served in the military and survived the conflict.

The experience was more difficult than I could ever imagine.

How did Mirza-san overcome these difficulties?

Was there anything that gave you emotional support?"

Mirza's answer to my question was surprising.

In this article, I will discuss the approach to life that I learned from Mirza.

Mirza's words were really heavy... I felt from the bottom of my heart that I am so glad to have met such a person.

Strength of Heart to Overcome Fear and Loneliness: A Conversation with Mirza, a Conflict Experienced Bosnian ⑫

Ottoman heritage, Pochiteli - a natural fortress on a cliff, Bosnia ⑬.

May 1, two days after my visit to Srebrenica.

I am finally leaving Sarajevo for my next destination, Mostar.

Mirza and I will drive to Mostar again today.

BEMI TOUR offers a one-day tour from Sarajevo to Mostar, and I had decided to take advantage of this tour and have it leave from Mostar.

This Mostar day tour will visit two other nearby tourist attractions, Pochiteri and Bragai, in addition to Mostar.

So in this article, I will talk about potteries.

Pochiteri is a fortified city built under Ottoman rule, with stone buildings along the mountain.

From the top of the tower, you will enjoy a spectacular view, but you will also have a rather thrilling experience.

This article introduces such an experience in Pochitelli, which would be off-limits in Japan. It was a very fun and memorable experience with a bit of adventure.

Ottoman heritage, Pochiteli - a natural fortress on a cliff, Bosnia ⑬.

You really should go here! The Islamic Monastery of Bragai and the overwhelming beauty of the spring water, Bosnia ⑭

After Pochiteri, the next stop is the Islamic Monastery in Bragai.

Bragai was a place that I was personally very interested in, and I was eager to visit if I ever made it to Bosnia.

Bragai is famous for its beautiful springs and the Islamic monastery that stands there.

While there are many Christian monasteries, visiting an Islamic monastery is quite a rare experience.

The river was unexpectedly strong and powerful when I saw it up close. I had imagined a more gentle, clear stream, but this was anything but.

If they fell in, they would be swept away far, far away in no time.

The sheer volume and force of the water is overwhelming. And if you look up, you will see sheer cliffs. It was a tremendous view.

It is one of the most famous sights in Bosnia. A visit here is highly recommended.

You really should go here! The Islamic Monastery of Bragai and the overwhelming beauty of the spring water, Bosnia ⑭

Symbol of Mostar - Beautiful Stari Most over the Netreva River, Bosnia (15)

After sightseeing in Bragai, we will now head to Mostar, our final destination for the day.

Mostar is another city near the mountains, where stone buildings, remnants of the Ottoman period, are conspicuous.

During the day it is full of tourists.

The main street is so crowded that it is hard to get through.

Here Mostar is a popular day-trip destination from Croatia, and many people come from Dubrovnik, Kotor, Split, and other resorts on the Adriatic coast.

And here is Starimost. Mostar is famous for this scenery.

It is a typical Bosnian landscape.

Originally built in the Ottoman period in the 16th century, this bridge was destroyed during the Bosnian conflict.

The one currently in place was reconstructed after the conflict.

In 2005, the year after it was rebuilt, it became Bosnia's first World Heritage Site.

This article will introduce you to this city of Starimosto and Mostar.

Symbol of Mostar - Beautiful Stari Most over the Netreva River, Bosnia (15)

The shock of the robbery was worse than expected...Days in Mostar and the turning point of the trip ⑯ Bosnia

Since the robbery in Sarajevo I had never gone out alone.

Whenever I go outside, I am always with Mirza.

I was holed up in my room for the entire time outside of the tour.

And after the tour in Mostar, we finally said goodbye to Mirza-san.

From here on out, you will have to spend your time alone. I can no longer rely on Mr. Mirza.

When Mirza-san left me and I was left alone in the room, I broke down in tears, as if the threads of tension that had been holding me back had been severed. I couldn't understand why I was crying, but I couldn't stop.

I stayed in Mostar for five days, but I was so afraid that I could hardly leave the house except to get some food and drink.

However, slowly but gradually, his mind was rehabilitated and he recovered his desire to begin his journey again.

This article talks about my days in Mostar, which was such a turning point in my journey.

The shock of the robbery was worse than expected...Days in Mostar and the turning point of the trip ⑯ Bosnia

The Mostar Massacre Museum of Horrors - Thinking about Violence, Bosnia ⑰.

May 4 evening.

I decided to walk the streets of Mostar.

In the evening, tourists on day tours begin to leave, and the streets of Mostar begin to thin out.

While walking around the city, I came across a building that was to become the Slaughterhouse Museum.

A peek from the outside revealed that it is quite a full-fledged museum.

Having found it here, I decided to go inside.

Inside, items and documents from the time of the conflict were on display.

This museum was quite shocking. I couldn't help but turn my eyes away from the many photos on display that I couldn't show you on my blog.

A picture too shocking.

The photos conveyed the misery and cruelty of the massacre in a straightforward manner.

Another impressive feature of this museum was the diorama shown in the photo above.

This is a diorama of a concentration camp.

This again stimulated my imagination and gave me an odd sense of vividness and fear.

It was an experience that made me think about violence again, as I was recovering from the robbery in Sarajevo.

The Mostar Massacre Museum of Horrors - Thinking about Violence, Bosnia ⑰.

Bosnia Attractions and Recommendations for Bosnia ⑱

The Bosnia section, which I have been writing over 18 articles, is finally in its final stages.

The Bosnia section has been quite a heavy article as I have been writing about the conflict as my main theme.

I am sorry that this may have been a painful experience for everyone who read it.

But Bosnia is more than that.

Bosnia is a very attractive country to visit.

I only experienced what I have described in previous articles because I happened to visit on the subject of ethnic conflict and religion.

Bosnia is a country that, although located in Europe, offers an exotic experience that is different from Europe.

Although the country may still be unfamiliar to Japanese, it is currently attracting particular attention in Europe as a new popular tourist destination.

So, at the end of the Bosnia section, I will post the attractions of this country and the security information for Sarajevo accordingly in the next article.

Bosnia Attractions and Recommendations for Bosnia ⑱

Bosnia and Sarajevo Security Information (Bosnia Edition)

Finally, the last article in the Bosnia section.

In this article, we will discuss the security situation in Bosnia, which is a matter of concern.

Bosnia was a country in conflict from 1992-95.

The conflict has devastated the country, worsened the economy, and shattered people's lives.

If this were to happen, security would naturally deteriorate, and sightseeing trips would be impossible.

For this reason, Bosnia has not been a tourist destination of choice for many days.

However, about five years ago, the situation began to change rapidly.

As reconstruction progressed, infrastructure facilities and tourist facilities began to improve, and the area began to be ready to receive tourists.

And with the spread of smartphones making it easier to spread information, word begins to spread around the world that Bosnia is an attractive tourist destination.

Thus, Bosnia is now beginning to establish itself as a tourist destination, although the situation is not yet satisfactory.

In fact, when I decided on my round-the-world route, Bosnia was the first thing people around me worried about.

After all, it is a land of conflict, and the image of danger is quite deep-rooted.

I myself had some misgivings about Bosnia.

And in fact I am,Takahiro Ueda, robbed in Sarajevo, Bosnia ⑨.As I mentioned in my article in the "The Robbery" section of this article, I was robbed.

So what is the actual situation in Bosnia today?

As I was writing the Bosnia section of the article, I had been in contact with Matsui-san of BEMI TOUR many times to edit the article, and in the course of this contact, Matsui-san contacted me to give me a heads up.

In this article, we will discuss Bosnia's security information and safety measures in conjunction with news articles.

Bosnia and Sarajevo Security Information (Bosnia Edition)

summary

Bosnia is the country that has stayed with me the most.

I will never forget what I learned from Mirza, a conflict survivor.

I am so grateful to have met Mr. Mirza and Ms. Matsui of BEMI TOUR. It was only because I met both of you that I was able to have such an intense experience.

I thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Also, in Sarajevo, we were robbed.

But fortunately, we were able to escape safely, and we did not get hurt as our things were not stolen.

You never know when something will happen. Peace is not a given. Suddenly, violence can strike."

I learned that firsthand.

Immediately after the robbery, I was continuously frightened and alone, wondering why I had to go through this.

But as I felt during the trip, I am even grateful to them both now.

Indeed, they attempted a robbery.

But I am unharmed as a result. No damage whatsoever.

They made me realize something important. Because of them I had a strong experience in Srebrenica and heard important stories from Mirza.

Above all, my own feelings about travel have changed decisively.

In that light, I now feel grateful to them for the robbery.

Of course, I am not advocating violence. But I am sure they have various circumstances in which they seek money as well.

Bosnia and Sarajevo Security Information (Bosnia Edition)As I mentioned in the previous section, there are social circumstances that increase the tendency to commit crimes, such as economic disparity, immigration issues, and international situations in the big picture, and domestic issues and family problems in the small picture.

If they had been full-fledged criminals carrying weapons and taking money and goods, I might have lost my life.

But it was not so.

If so, it's also a coincidence. We can only be thankful.

At any rate, Bosnia was a country that left a strong impression on me.

One last thing.Bosnia Attractions and Recommendations for Bosnia ⑱As I mentioned in the previous section, the country is also very attractive as a tourist destination.

Since I came here with the goal of learning more about the Bosnian conflict in depth, the articles I have mentioned have been the main focus of my visit.

However, you can of course also enjoy the exotic cityscapes and the gourmet food that Bosnia has to offer, which are typical of a tourist destination. Most foreign travelers come to Bosnia to enjoy the country's charms.

Besides, even though you have been robbed, it is not that dangerous as long as you are careful.

Bosnia is a country full of charm. Please do not be too afraid to get to know this country.

The above is a list of "Exploring the Exotic City of Sarajevo and the Reality of the Bosnian Conflict: A Round-the-World Tour of Bosnia" by a person who has experienced the conflict.

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