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(21) Dostoevsky's favorite Milan Cathedral and the beginning of his and his wife's stay in Italy
Mr. and Mrs. Dostoevsky are in grief over the loss of their beloved daughter. After spending a summer of grief in Vvej, they finally set off for Italy.
Mr. and Mrs. Dostovsky on their way to Milan from Vvej, Switzerland
As autumn approached, it became clear that I needed to change my heavy mood at any cost, so I decided to stop in Italy at the beginning of September, first in Milan. The most direct route was the mountain road over the Simplon. Some parts were done on foot. My husband and I walked alongside and passed large horse-drawn carriages going up the mountain, and we picked up flowers along the way as we followed the paths through the mountains. Once we entered the Italian side of the mountain, we were followed by a one-horse national carriage. One day, something funny happened. In Domo Dossola, I went to buy some fruit and decided to try out the Italian I had learned during the summer. I noticed that my husband had gone into a certain store, so I hurried over there to catch up with him. My husband was inquiring about the price of a thin chain he had seen in a show window, hoping to find something that would please me. The shopkeeper, who thought we were "noble foreigners," quoted us 3,000 francs for the chain, saying that it was from the Vespasian period. My husband burst out laughing, but it was the first time since our misfortune that he had seen such a cheerful face.
Misuzu Shobo, Anna Dostoevskaya, translated by Hiroshi MatsushitaDostoevsky in Recollection."p199-200
From Switzerland to Italy, one must cross the Alps.
Previous Article(20) Mr. and Mrs. Dostoevsky's Stay in Vouvei: The Summer They Left Geneva in Grief and Mourned the Death of Their Beloved DaughterBut the view of Vvei I saw, Milan is just beyond those shining mountains in front of me. Dostoevsky and his wife crossed these mountains by carriage and on foot. I have always been amazed at how well the Dostoevsky's were able to walk, but I had no idea they were walking here as well...
And at the end of the quote above.My husband burst out laughing, and it was the first time he had laughed since his misfortune.I am still wondering about this. The shock of losing their beloved daughter was that great. The pain of the couple's stay in Vevay is evident.
I also took the early morning train from Geneva to Milan. The journey to Milan took about four hours. Since even a modern high-speed train takes such a long time, I wonder how long it must have taken Mr. and Mrs. Dostoevsky to get there by horse-drawn carriage and on foot.
We are running between the very mountains we saw in Vouvei. I am excited to see the car window with the mountains towering like cliffs in front of me.
The morning haze was replaced by sunlight, creating a fantastic sight. Due to time constraints, I was not able to stay in the Swiss Alps this time, but I have no regrets at all. I had no regrets at all because I was able to enjoy such a beautiful view from the train window.
Dostoevsky also described these mountains from Vvee to Milan in a letter as follows.
This beautiful mountain road over the Simplon cannot be imagined by anyone with even the most vivid imagination. (Dated October 26, 1868, to my niece Sonya Ivanova.)
Kawade Shobo Shinsha, translated by Masao Yonekawa, Dostoevsky's Complete Works 17, p. 190
The scenery was just as wonderful as these words.
Now, as I gazed at the Swiss mountains that Dostoevsky and his wife must have seen, I was finally approaching Milan.
Soon, the train arrived at Milano Centrale Station.
Now let's hear Mrs. Anna's "recollections" again from here.
Milan Cathedral and Dostoevsky
The change of environment, the impressions of the trip, and the new people (in Fyodor Mikhailovich's opinion, the faces of Lombardy peasants looked very much like Russian peasants) had a positive effect on my husband's mood, and when we first arrived in Milan, he was in great spirits and took me to the famous Milan Cathedral. He even took me to the famous Milan Cathedral. This was something he could not help but admire with all his heart. He was sorry to see that houses have been built right up to the square in front of the cathedral (the square is much wider now), and he said that the cathedral has lost some of its grandeur. One fine day, we even climbed up on the roof of the cathedral to have a look. We could see the whole area and the statues that adorn the cathedral. We found a place to live near the Corso, but it was a crowded street and the people living there could talk to each other through their windows.
Misuzu Shobo, Anna Dostoevskaya, translated by Hiroshi MatsushitaDostoevsky in Recollection."p200
By the time he arrived in Milan, Dostoevsky's mental state had changed, and he was finally showing signs of recovery.
Dostoevsky then takes his wife Anna to Milan Cathedral, his great favorite. He himself praises the beauty of this cathedral in his letter as follows
The only thing of note in the city is the famous Milan Temple. It is a huge marble structure, gothic in style, entirely ajour (through-carved) and fantastically fantastical. The interior is also exceptionally splendid. (Dated October 26, 1868, to his niece Sonya Ivanova)
Kawade Shobo Shinsha, translated by Masao Yonekawa, Dostoevsky's Complete Works 17, p. 191
It's as phantasmagorical as a dream."Dostoevsky said, "The cathedral is the most beautiful cathedral in the world! This is a great expectation. I decided to visit Milan Cathedral as soon as possible.
Another angle.
I took the subway to the square in front of the cathedral, and as I walked up the stairs from the basement, I couldn't help but exclaim at the sight of this facade. I couldn't help but exclaim, "Oh...! This is amazing!"
It is completely different from the Cologne Cathedral and Mainz Cathedral that I saw in Germany.
Milan Cathedral is quite wide. Perhaps because of this, it looks well-balanced. Unlike the Cologne Cathedral, which rises high into the sky, the Milan Cathedral seems to have a calm harmony.
This feeling was further heightened when I entered the interior of the cathedral. Thanks to the width of the space, it is open and airy without feeling oppressive, even though it is massive. Above all, the pillars standing on both sides are remarkable. The center of gravity of these pillars seems to have been raised by the decoration on the tops of the pillars. This ornamentation makes the thick columns feel less heavy.
These two pictures are the interior of Mainz Cathedral, which represents Germany along with Cologne Cathedral. The thickness of the columns is almost the same as that of Milan Cathedral. No, rather, Milan Cathedral's columns are thicker than those of Mainz Cathedral. However, compared to the Milan Cathedral, the Mainz Cathedral is more massive and sturdy. It may be said that it is a difference in temperament and culture between Germany and Italy.
The central altar is also not overly cluttered and decorated, giving the impression of sophistication. Milan has long flourished as a commercial and financial city. Perhaps that is why the city avoids the luxury and excess of decoration. Harmony, harmony, harmony.
I felt the harmony of the cathedral just by looking at its exterior, but I could not get it out of my mind the whole time I was inside. It was as if I was listening to beautiful music. What a beautiful and delicate church. I also fell in love with this cathedral.
And I, like Mr. and Mrs. Dostoevsky, decided to go up on the roof. It is difficult to get admission tickets without reservations, so I recommend making reservations as early as possible.
A beauty that takes your breath away...! It's like a forest. A forest of pillars. A power that cannot be felt from below.
I could understand why Dostoevsky described it as "fantastic. The spire seems to be thrusting toward the heavens. The sharp and slender sculpture at the top of the tower seems to represent the power of God.
The pathway is on the roof. I am sure that Mr. and Mrs. Dostoevsky must have passed through here.
Just arrived at the back part of the facade of the cathedral.
I am standing right behind the very tip of this facade.
Milan is one of the largest cities in Italy. The cathedral towers over the center of the city. I enjoyed the view from the roof of the cathedral. Dostoevsky saw Milan more than 150 years ago. Even though there are no modern buildings like today, it must have been a magnificent sight.
And don't miss the illuminated Milan Cathedral at night.
But the area around the cathedral square is so luxurious and fashionable. It was so sophisticated that I was a bit taken back. I felt I could understand why I had become a "Milanista" of longing. If you can sashay here, there is nothing to be afraid of anymore. It is no wonder that this place is regarded as the cutting edge of fashion by both men and women.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie with Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper
Having come all the way to Milan, I decided to see Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper. Strangely enough, Dostoevsky never mentioned this painting in Milan. I wonder if he was not allowed to see it freely at that time.
The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where "The Last Supper" is located, is easily accessible by metro from the cathedral area.
To see "The Last Supper," it is necessary to reserve tickets in advance. Moreover, the time schedule is quite strict and the number of people who can see the show at the same time is also limited, perhaps to prevent coronas. Well, it is a great help for us because we don't have to see the show in the middle of a huge crowd.
This is the hall where "The Last Supper" was painted. The Last Supper" was painted in a larger space than expected, and was much larger than expected. When I saw it for the first time, I couldn't help but exclaim, "It's huge! I couldn't help but let out a voice.
Stare at it.
What is it? What is this vague impression that seems to float in the air?
The active use of perspective is also evident. Although it is a wall, it appears as if there is depth beyond it.
And above all, it's the overall impression. Vermeer'sThe Girl with the Pearl EarringIt's the same as in the ((19) The original of Vermeer's "Girl with a Pearl Earring" was a masterpiece far beyond anything I could have imagined."(See article in)
A power that transcends individual analysis and logic. I see. So, "The Last Supper" is also a painting of this type. This painting is often used in "The Da Vinci Code" and other picture puzzles, but I guess it is the type of painting that overwhelms such things. (Of course, each person has his or her own way of looking at a painting, so this is just my opinion.)
Well I am glad to see this picture.
Dostoevsky, who seemed to have regained his energy, is once again in a state of depression.
Although Dostoevsky seemed to regain his energy upon his arrival in Milan, he soon became depressed and blocked up again.
Mrs. Anna is worried about Dostoevsky.
There, the two traveled further south in Italy to Florence, a city familiar to Dostoevsky.
In the next article, I will talk about such a stay in Florence.
be unbroken
Next Article.
Click here to read the previous article.
Click here for a list of Dostoevsky's recommended books.
List of recommended Dostoevsky biographies."
List of recommended Dostoevsky commentaries.
A list of recommended commentaries on "Dostoevsky and Christianity."
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